Sophie Denis is a mutli-sport athlete and mountain climber based in New York City. A former banker, she’s as of today a top-ranked mountaineer and the youngest challenger in the world on the way to tackle one of the most difficult human endeavors on the planet - an ascent of the world’s 14 elite 8,000-meter (26,000ft) peaks.
Through her performances she hopes to instill awareness on the individual endless possibilities and aspirations for people to realise their dreams. An inspiring story, Sportsister’s Mountain Girl Blogger, Sophie Nicholson, jumped at the chance to hear all about it - climber to climber.
Before 2006 you had never even climbed, yet one year ago you quit your banking job in NYC to become a full time mountaineer. Who and what were the determining factors that persuaded you to make such a dramatic life change?
In the summer of 2010 I opened several new routes with my climbing partners and had a total blast. Right after that in August I then had an operation and during my recovery time, I had time to think… what if?! What if I give it a shot and become a mountaineer for a year and just see how it goes!
I’ve always perceived change as positive as it is part of your “growing” process. So I’m fine with change, and the timing was perfect: I have no kids, I’m not married, had worked for almost a decade in finance which allow me to get a decent expertise in the banking field, I was young… so it was my time to make the leap and live the dream!
What characteristics do you think an individual needs to possess to be an accomplished and successful mountaineer?
I think that you need to be strong (physically and mentally), resilient, confident, driven, respectful and humble, reliable and objective.
As a female mixing with the best in a very male dominated world, do you encounter any sexism?
Yes. I have had some issues especially with men aged between 35-45. They seem to see me as a threat. But I’d much rather ignore them than let them spoil the fun.
What do your family and friends think about your decision to pursue a life and career in a potentially dangerous environment?
I think that my family are happy that I’ve changed career and that I spend less time in high buildings sitting in front of a computer. I make bold decisions which they may not always understand but they respect my choices. They know my infectious capacity to rebound in life.
With regards to the dangers inherent to climbing, yes I think they are worried. I feel lucky; my family trusts me very much -they trust my judgment call. Nevertheless, I am sure they will be relieved when I finally stop climbing!
As an accomplished businesswoman and athlete, you are obviously a very driven character. Does this drive and focus extend into your everyday life?
My motto “Everything Is Possible” is my legacy. It is what drives me in life, allows me to think beyond the norm, helps me to go beyond my comfort zone, to take the initiative and to reinvent myself.
My tip is this: No one should believe in you more than yourself, especially at the beginning. So gear up yourself but don’t be at war with yourself. If you make a decision live it 100 per cent. If it doesn’t work, it’s ok, you will have learned lessons, yet if it works then you will be outstanding.
In April you are starting your Himalayan Challenge - to climb all 14 8,000m peaks by 2013. Only 27 people have achieved this feat and only two other females. Why is it so difficult to achieve and what do you anticipate will be the main factors that will determine success or failure?
Climbing can be harsh on your body and mind. It is difficult and imperative to stay focused, driven, healthy and strong – both mentally and physically. One of the major issues for me is my body fat management as I always lose way too much weight (about 15kg in two months). So making sure I eat enough between climbs becomes less of a pleasure and more of a job that I have to do.
I don’t think there is failure in climbing. If you don’t summit, it is because something has prevented you from doing so. Saying ‘no’ to a summit and deciding to turn back is one of the hardest decisions to make. You can be tired; it can be bad weather, who knows? Thus if you decide to not go for the summit, I’m pretty sure it’s always the right decision for yourself.
With five of the 8,000m peaks already under your belt including Everest, Lhotse and Cho Oyu, tell us a little about the physical demands of climbing at such high altitude and how you are training for the months ahead.
Climbing 8000m is like running an ironman at altitude with a heavy load on your back. When I train, I condition myself and imagine myself in the most difficult of sporting situations which would demand lots of psychological strength, energy and confidence. My imagination is so vivid that I can visualize the summit, feel the cold on my face, my short breaths, the exhaustion. My training is very psychological because for me climbing is 80 per cent in your head. So I am doing lots of meditation to enhance my breathing and relaxation techniques and my focus.
As a relative newcomer to mountaineering with such a big plan to put yourself in the record books, have you encountered any negative reaction from the more established mountaineering community?
I am not really looking to write records; it has just evolved that way. I’ve encountered various types of reactions so far. For some my project is too much, too fast, too big, too everything. On the other hand, there are some people who are ultra-supportive as they find my feat amazing. Others are fascinated by my audacity to break the rules in so much as being a woman who even dares to come up with such a bold climbing challenge in a male dominant world. Yet more are inspired by my drive and boldness. There are a lot of reactions for sure – this challenge definitely creates emotions.
With 13-year-olds now able to summit the world’s highest mountain, Mt Everest, the golden age of Himalayan mountaineering is definitely behind us. Do you believe taking kids up high mountains is a responsible plan?
What if things turn sour while climbing, and you or your team is at risk? You have to be self-sufficient. So to me, age matters.
What is your opinion on the overt commercialization of the 8,000m peaks?
I’m happy that there is some democratization on this field. Anyone who wants to climb should be able to climb what they can. Thus, everybody should be responsible for the amount of risk they are taking for themselves and for the Sherpas they hired. Risks in the mountain are inherent, and for me one of the duties of a climber is not putting the lives of others at risk..
My golden rule is this; “Never overestimate yourself. Never underestimate the mountain”.
If you could sum up what mountaineering means to you in just three sentences, what would you say?
Mountaineering is a wonderful sport that allows me to touch the sky, to be at peace with myself and with nature. When you are up there, it is magic, silent and pure. You are surrounded by beauty and you see the world from above.
Lastly, how can we keep up-to-date with your progress?
I will send daily Tweets from my satellite phone to keep people posted on my progress, status and feelings while climbing. The Tweets will be automatically fed into my blog and Facebook page. I will also have a SPOT on me which via a GPS ship allows my followers to monitor progress by tracking my position on a Google map. See followtheclimb.blogspot.com and twitter.com/#!/followtheclimb.
Sophie Nicholson, Sportsister
The Women’s Sports Magazine
