With virtually no lift queues, a genuine French atmosphere, great food and plenty of alternative non-ski activities, the Haute Maurienne in France is a well-kept secret, shared mostly by just the French themselves, yet it’s one definitely worth discovering, as Lara Dunn finds out.
Visiting the beautiful, remote feeling valley of the Haute Maurienne, I’m staying literally on the doorstep of the Val Cenis ski area, but from here I also have quick and easy access to the ski areas of Bessans and Bonneval. With a flight time of an hour and a half from the UK to Chambery, and a bus transfer of around the same amount of time at the other end, it’s a refreshingly painless journey. For those who dislike flying, or prefer a greener option, it’s easy by train too, with the TGV from Paris taking just 4 hours to Modane, which is 45 minutes from Val Cenis.
Staying in the beautifully appointed Residence Les Chalets de Flambeau in Val Cenis, the main ski area is just a short distance and clearly visible from the balcony. With its own spa, complete with sizeable pool, jacuzzis, steam room, sauna and treatment rooms, this smart modern apartment complex has all the post ski relaxation options covered. A small convenience store just around the corner is handy for day to day essentials.
The Val Cenis ski area offers 80km of pistes, catering to all levels, but is particularly ideal for intermediates. Beginners will delight in cruising down Europe’s longest green run, the scenic and genuinely enjoyable tree lined L’Escargot that winds for 10km back and forth across the mountain. Other ski areas (7 in total) easily reached via the free ski bus shuttle include the scenic Bonneval-sur-Arc, just 25 minutes from Val Cenis, which although it boasts only a handful of lifts, makes up for that in the sheer quality and character of its runs and the stunning unspoilt mountain surroundings. For the really intrepid, it’s also an excellent area for guided off-piste excursions.
Where the Haute Maurienne really excels is in the variety of non-ski activities on offer in the immediate vicinity. High up on the plateau around the beautiful Lac du Mont Cenis, it’s possible to drive your own dog sled, making fresh tracks through the generous snow away from the pistes with an eager team of canine athletes. Nighttime snowshoeing excursions to a rural restaurant are a great way to build up a hunger and give a different perspective on the countryside. If you’re lucky you’ll see moisture in the air freezing and falling as frost – just magical.
The area around Bessans is particularly popular for cross-country skiing, with all levels and styles catered for, and 100’s of kilometers of tranquil countryside to explore. If you’ve ever had a hankering after combining cross-country skiing with rifle shooting (and let’s be honest, who hasn’t?) it’s possible to give the sport of biathlon a try here too. Dashing around the cross-country track on unsteady legs then trying to hit a target at 50m, while you’re out of breath and your heart is doing ninety to the dozen is a truly unique challenge!
For the truly adventurous, there’s always the option of a via ferrata. As if climbing a mountainside on metal pegs and rungs, with a special harness and lanyard wasn’t exciting enough, factor in some serious cold and snowy vistas and it’s safe to say it’ll be a memorable experience.
The après-ski in this area is pretty low key, focussing on quiet drinks with friends or a really good meal out. The bar Le Criterium, just a short walk from the Residences, is great for a post-ski nightcap and serves good food too, both lunchtimes and in the evenings. Other good options for eating out include L’Arcelle in the village of Lanslevillard.
Information
Flights are available with BA (www.ba.com) four times a week from London City to Chambery from £86 per person.
Buses from the airport are bookable via La Maison de Val Cenis from €70 return per person for the 1.5 hour transfer.
The four-star self-catering Residence Les Chalets de Flambeau is available for a week from €791 for an apartment for 2-4 people.
A 6-day lift pass for Val Cenis is €156, and Bonneval €23 for the day.
Dog sledding at Lac du Mont Cenis with www.huskyadventure.net costs from €115 per person for two-hours in charge of your own team of 2-4 dogs.
A day’s cross-country pass for Bessans is €9.70. Biathlon costs from €56 per person for a private one hour lesson.
Nighttime guided snowshoe excursions with dinner from €19 per person.
The via ferrata takes about 2.5 hours and costs €30 per person.
Online resources:
www.haute-maurienne-vanoise.com
Lara Dunn, Sportsister
The Women’s Sports Magazine
